Sonoma and Neighbors 2022 & 2023: Opposites Attract
Written by:
Antonio Galloni, Vinous
January 16, 2025
It’s that time of year. New releases from Sonoma County and neighboring appellations are starting to hit the market. This report covers some of the most exciting wines I tasted on my recent trip to Sonoma.
Centennial Mountain
Centennial Mountain is a new range from Rhys that takes the place of Aeris. In short, all the Aeris wines have now been folded into Centennial Mountain, while the Italian Aeris wines have been discontinued. In my view, that greater focus is going to be a positive. The 2021s are seriously impressive across the board.”
2021 Centennial Mountain Nebbiolo – 96 Points: Exceptional. A profound and emotionally moving wine that exemplifies the very best attributes of its kind. These are the world’s great, iconic wines
“The 2021 Nebbiolo is possibly the single greatest Nebbiolo I have tasted from the United States. Translucent but powerful, the 2021 is captivating. Large-scaled yet polished tannins wrap around a core of dark-fleshed fruit. Floral and spice overtones open with a bit of coaxing. As good as the 2021 is, there is room for improvement, especially with a softer oak imprint. I can’t wait to see how this ages. The Nebbiolo has come a very long way since I started tasting it with the 2017 vintage some years ago. The 2021 spent 14-28 days in tank. Malolactic fermentation was done in neutral barrels, where the wine spent 4- 6 months before being racked into 25HL casks for aging.”
2021 Centennial Mountain Centennial Reserve – 95 Points: Outstanding. A wine of remarkable personality and breed that is well worth seeking out
“The 2021 Reserve is superb. A blast of dark fruit, leather, cedar, menthol and licorice saturates the
palate. There’s plenty of tannin and acid, but that is pretty much buried by the sheer intensity of the
fruit. The 2021 spent one year in French oak barrels and a second year in cask. A whole range of
oral and savory overtones extend the finish beautifully.”
2021 Centennial Mountain Zinfandel – 95 Points: Outstanding. A wine of remarkable personality and breed that is well worth seeking out
“The 2021 Zinfandel is another stellar wine in this range from Centennial Mountain. Ample and resonant in the glass, with tremendous density, the 2021 stains the palate with dark fruit, cedar, new leather and incense. The 2021 is a blend of heritage Zinfandel clones and Primitivo clones from Italy. I have never tasted anything like it. What a wine.”
2021 Centennial Mountain Barbera – 94 Points: Outstanding. A wine of remarkable personality and breed that is well worth seeking out
“The 2021 Barbera is gorgeous. Silky, deep and exquisitely layered, the 2021 has so much to offer. The fruit prole is classic Barbera, while the acid and tannin signatures are very much those of a California site at elevation. The 2021 spent 18 months in French oak barrels, all new. It’s a gorgeous wine in every way.”
2021 Centenari Etna Rosso Nerello Mascalese – 94 Points: Outstanding. A wine of remarkable personality and breed that is well worth seeking out
“The 2021 Nerello Mascalese is another exotic wine in this range from Centennial Mountain. Crushed red berry fruit, orange peel, new leather and spice all meld together effortlessly. The 2021 spent a year in French oak barrels followed by a second year in cask. The Nerello Mascalese is gorgeous, but it does take an adventurous palate to fully appreciate its charms, as it is very different from the norm in California. A touch of Nerello Cappuccio rounds out the blend.”
NV Centennial Mountain Solera 1 – 93 Points: Outstanding. A wine of remarkable personality and breed that is well worth seeking out
“The NV Solera No. 1 is a Nebbiolo-based blend, with smaller bits of Nerello Mascalese, Nerello Cappuccio, Zinfandel, Primitivo and Barbera, done in a perpetual reserve style as is common in Champagne, in this case spanning 2022 to 2017 (there is no 2020). Exotic and layered in the glass, the No. 1 offers up sweet red cherry fruit, orange peel, mint, cinnamon and cedar. This is a serious wine with the tannic spine of Nebbiolo to back it up.”
2021 Centennial Mountain Carricante – 91 Points: Outstanding. A wine of remarkable personality and breed that is well worth seeking out
“The 2021 Carricante is a beguiling white. Gentle in its contours, it is alluring right out of the gate. Lemon confit, white flowers, ginger and spice all grace this gentle, inviting white. The 2021 is an especially open-knit Carricante. Warm, dry weather softened the edges, adding to a palpable sense of immediacy.”