Helmed by the same team as Rhys Vineyards, Centennial Mountain debuted with the 2021 vintage as the successor to Rhys Sicily-based Aris project. Situated at an elevation of 2,000 feet in Sonoma County, Centennial Mountain’s organically-farmed 26.4-acre estate vineyard was planted between 2013 and 2016 to a mix of Italian varieties of mixed genetic origins. The same care and attention to detail that informs the Rhys ethos is very much present here.
Winemaking nods to the traditions of Piedmont, with fermentations conducted in open-top vats, submerged-cap maceration and long levage in large oak casks. The results are undeniably excellent. Whereas the 2021s were good across the board, the 2022s are a step up, reflecting a noticeable refinement in oak usage and even greater depth of fruit. The coup de grace is the 2022 Nebbiolo, without a doubt the finest domestic interpretation of the variety l’ve ever tasted. Best of all, these wines remain incredibly reasonably priced. Don’t miss them.
2022 Centennial Mountain Nebbiolo – 97 Points.
The 2022 Nebbiolo, now in its second vintage, is exceptional. Deep mineral accents open first, creating an almost sanguine, feral bouquet of iron, tar, chalk, white pepper and iodine before blossoming into a cornucopia of rose petals and dried cherries. It boasts a classically austere build, with ultra-refined yet formidable tannins and a bright line of varietal acidity, but the fruit quality is California all the way. The 2022 was vinified with submerged-cap maceration then went through malolactic for six months in neutral barrel, followed by aging for two and a half years in cask-about as classic as it gets. Best of all, the oak integration is a step up from the similarly excellent 2021 I’ve tasted on three separate occasions this year. The results are clear. Centennial Mountain’s 2022 Nebbiolo is the finest domestic Nebbiolo l’ve ever encountered.
2022 Centennial Mountain Reserve – 95 Points.
The 2022 Reserve is a blend of Nebbiolo, Nerello Mascalese, Cappuccio, Primitivo and Barbera. It’s another totally singular wine in a range of utterly singular wines. Here, the Reserve impresses most for its textural suaveness, allowing all of these varieties to showcase their owns strengths in a harmonious, midweight package. Vibrant acids and refined tannins lend structure to a dark-fruited, deeply spiced, mineral-drenched core, while a cocoa powder finish wraps things up in style. Approachable now, but a year or two in bottle won’t hurt.
2022 Centennial Mountain Barbera – 93 Points.
The 2022 Barbera is juicy and varietally pure, but also endowed with ample structure, power and drive. Notes of blue fruit, exotic spice, black pepper, tar and orange peel all layer atop one another in the glass. This is a broad-shouldered, chewy interpretation of Barbera with a real savory bent. Classy stuff.
2022 Centennial Mountain Carricante – 93 Points.
The 2022 Carricante is a shapeshifter in the glass. It opens with a taut, mineral-drenched line of lemon-zested pear fruit and fresh ginger, followed quickly by a flicker of tropicality before delving into creamy, toasty notes and a weighty mid-palate. At once both salivating and enveloping, this is a very distinctive white, especially within the California canon. It turns even more exotic on the long, oily finish.
